In South Africa, between Saudi Arabia and Yemen, In Brunei, in India along the Pakistani and Bangladeshi borders, between Uzbekistan and Kyrgystan, between Botswana and Zimbabwe, and then of course around the Spanish enclaves in Morocco, between the United States and Mexico, around the Israeli colonies of the West-Bank, and between Gaza and Egypt ... all nations states, both rich and poor, display a passion for building walls, even those which predict a world without borders; walls which always come tumbling down, as everyone knows... (Jean-Louis Violeau in "The Littoral as Final Frontier: Paul Virilio & Jean-Louise Violeau, Animal Shelter, Issue 2).
On December 24, 2014, the United States Canada Peace Anniversary Association (USCPA) celebrated the bicentennial of the Treaty of Ghent, which ended the British/US war of 1812, at Peace Arch International Park. The ponderous white Peace Arch (1921) that sits in the middle of a grassy stretch between the US (Blaine, Washington) and Canadian (Surrey, BC) border stations was built to mark the treaty’s centenary, so park supporters felt that it was also fitting to host bicentennial celebration. I didn’t make it to the park for that event last week, but I have recently driven through the park on either side of the arch, on my way to and later, from San Diego. During the first two weeks of this month, I travelled by car all the way from the Canada-US border, to the US-Mexican border (2, 250 km), and back. Whereas at Peace Arch International Park, there is no fence, just parkland and a big open arch, at "Friendship Park / Playas de Tijuana" the situation is eerily different.
May These Gates Never Be Closed. (Peace Arch inscription, east side.)
On December 13, I joined Pamela Calore, Angel Chen, Carl Wiebe, Enrique Morenes, and other border advocates and Mexican-Americans at the parking lot of Border Field State Park. We gathered there in preparations for a 40-minute trek through mud and sand to reach the site where, on August 18, 1971, Pat Nixon opened Friendship Park on the extreme southeastern corner of the US. Reaching across a barbed wire fence to shake the hands of Mexicans gathered there, Nixon is quoted to have said, “I hope there won’t be a fence here too long… I hate to see a fence anywhere.” She then ordered her security detail to clip a stretch of the fence so that she could properly greet her neighbours, by hugging some of the Mexican children and by wandering through the crowd followed by a Mariachi band (“Look who was at the gate?” Huffington Post).
Unfortunately, Nixon’s hope was never realized. What I experienced at Friendship Park earlier this month were two enormous, fortified fences, a closed road, and a chained park boundary. After the long trek, and finally reaching the most southerly fence separating the two countries –a privilege reserved for visitors for two hours on Sundays and for the afternoon of this special pre-Christmas La Posada celebration, we were confronted by a thick metal grid with openings just large enough for single fingers to reach through, or for an eye to look into, like a peephole.
Mr. Gorbachev, tear down that wall! Ronald Reagan (June 12, 1987)
La Posada Sin Fronteras is an annual event held simultaneously at Friendship Park and Playas de Tijuana. It borrows from the carol singing of the nine-day Las Posadas processions that take place in Mexican and Latin American neighbourhoods for nine days preceding Christmas. Singers and players, including the pregnant Mary on a burro, travel from house to house looking for a sympathetic host, but hearing over and over again that there is “no room at the inn.” The numerous stanzas of the Posada Song become explicit: “…Ya se pueden ir / Y no molestar. / Porque se me enojo / Los voy a apalear.” (“Better go on / And don’t bother us. / For if I become angry / I shall beat you up.”)* Eventually, the weary migrants are greeted by a welcoming host: “Entren, peregrinos, / No los conocia.” (“Enter pilgrims, / I did not know you.”) La Posada Sin Fronteras included carol singing, warm wishes, and the reading of a long list of missing migrants, after which we were instructed to call out “PRESENTÉ!”
Through the metal grate and fences, I could see and hear that on the Tijuana side there was food, music, power for the sound system (someone brought a cordless microphone synced to the Mexican sound system, for the US side), and a fenced off monument to friendship and peace between the two nations. Soon, there will be a monument to migrants (“Fuente Monumento De Migrantes”) by Laura Diaz Soberanis. Rising from a bed of brightly coloured flowers, the monument will be comprised of two faces in profile looking north toward the edge of the fence near the beach. Water will be flowing from the eyes of the faces, and will produce splashes in the pool below.
*Text and translation from the pamphlet provided to participants of the December 13, 2014 event.
Lois Klassen